Langhe and Roero: among castles and vineyards

The low Piedmont is a land of ancient flavors, the hilly region of valuable wines such as Barolo and Barbaresco, but also of veritable dainty dishes such as the Alba truffle and the nuts from Cortemilia. All this among architectonical beauties and heart-breaking views.

An itinerary through hamlets and castles looking for ancient scents and flavors: old restaurants in villages where time seems to have stopped, discovering the typical products of this land, from its excellent wines to the dainty Alba truffle. A trip on the Piedmontese hills of Roero and Langhe, which have been perfectly described by Pavese and Fenoglio.

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Langhe and Roero extend in the Southern part of Piedmont, on the hills of Cuneo province, along the Tanaro area and the Belbo and Bormida valleys. It is usless to take a map and look for a border between the two districts since they penetrate into eachother and into the neighbouring Monferrato. The Langhe region is more popular, above all for its wines and for the truffle. Its name has uncertain origins: some say that it would mean "land of the Ligurians", others say "fallow land" or "land stripes". Its various under-districts take their names from their typical products: Langa of Barolo, of Barbaresco, of Asti, of nuts and of truffle. The best period to visit it is obviously Autumn, but a curious visitor may also discover another Langa and another Roero in the remaining months.

Alba, main centre of Langhe, is also called the "Town of the Hundred Towers" and its impressive historical centre is characterized by some surviving Medieval towers disposed in circle. In Risorgimento Square you may see the City Hall (hosting a painting by Macrino d'Alba dated 1501) and the Cathedral, Gothic building of the late XV century. You should as well see the beautiful Gothic church of San Domenico (XIII-XIV centuries) and the Baroque church of Maddalena. But Alba is mostly popular for its truffle (Tuber Magnatum Pico), the hypogean mushroom which became main product of a rich oengastronomic universe based on secular traditions.

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Green pastures, woods and hazels characterize the landscape of the High "Langa", the Southern part of the region on the border line with Liguria. It is worth visiting Monforte d'Alba, wine centre also known because it had been centre of the Catari heretics in the Middle Age, and Serravalle Langhe, where lays the Medieval S. Michele oratory hosting XV century frescos. But the main centre of these hard hills is Bossolasco, renowned holiday resort, with its beautiful natural balcony from where in shiny days you can even see the sea of Liguria.

The last "langa" we visit is the Asti one, homeland of the popular "spumante" wine. Its main centre is Santo Stefano Belbo, where the writer Cesare Pavese was born on 9th September 1908 and where we can see the millenary abbey of San Gaudenzio, now seat of a wine firm. Here there are many memories of Pavese: the Belbo plain in front of S. Stefano, where raises the tip of Moncucco and where Pavese spent his childhood; Gaminella, the hill of big bonfires under which there is the farm-house of S. Sebastiano where the writer was born and where his best novels came into light: "The House on the Hill", "August Feria", "The Moon and the Bonfires" and "The Work Tires".

Viaggio nelle Langhe

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